It was another long day visiting temples and Khmer cities. We started again at 7:30am and went to Angkor Thom, one of the largest of all Khmer cities. This complex was founded by Jayavarman VII in the 12th century and probably remained the capital city until the 17th century. We entered through the South Gate, which I had passed through already yesterday.
South Gate, Angkor Thom
Mr Lai dropped me off at the west side of the Bayon group in Angkor Thom. He showed me a map and told me that I should walk and visit numerous other temples and structures around Bayon and meet him about a kilometer north of there by the Terrace of the Leper King. I probably walked around for a good two hours or more.
I started out at the Bayon. This was the State Temple of Jayavarman VII and his immediate successors, built between the late 12th to late 13 centuries. It is an enigmatic and dramatic structure, with several face-towers appearing on the mountainous peaks. You’ve probably seen these face-towers before, since they photograph so beautifully.
View of Bayon with its many peaks
Face Towers at Bayon
Face Towers at Bayon
Face Towers Bayon
Profiles: There are three in this photo. Can you see them all?
Wall Relief at Bayon
View from the north of Bayon
One of the best parts of Bayon is walking through the streets below the top terrace, where you can get lost easily but also you can easily get beautiful views of the face towers. It was quite nice.
After visiting Bayon, I walked a little north-west to Bapuon. Built in the middle 11th century, Bapuon was the state temple during the reign of Udayadityavarman II. It is a temple-mountain, with remarkably steep steps. These were so steep that they have added some little precarious ladder-steps to help tourists climb to the top. I must say I was rather terrified going up and down these because they were so steep.
Bapuon
View of Bapuon
View from the top of the temple-mountain Bapuon
From Baphuon, I walked north to the next group of ruins, called Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace. This structure was built in the late 10th to early 11th centuries, with other parts built during the 12th and 13th centuries. This structure also had steep steps to get to the top, but luckily less terrifying than Bapuon.
Phimeanakas
The Royal Palace remains weren’t as interesting to me so I didn’t photograph them (mostly there was just a large pond that was dried up).
Next I continued my journey walking north to Preah Palilay, a small Budhist sanctuary from the 13th or 14th century nearby to the Royal Palace.
Preah Palilay
I walked south along the road so that I could see Phimeanakas and Baphuon again from afar and I also wanted to see the Elephant Terrace, which is just east of those two sites. The Elephant Terrace was the foundation for the royal reception pavilions in this place. They date from the 12th century with late 13th century additions. The terrace is known for the many elephant carvings long its walls, which is how it derived its name.
Elephant Terrace
Elephant carvings along the Elephant Terrace
Detail of an elephant carving at the Elephant Terrace
Just north of the Elephant Terrace, along the road, is the Terrace of the Leper King. This terrace was built in the Bayon style during the reign of Jayavaman VII (so 12th century) but the name “Terrace of the Leper King” is derived from a 15-century sculpture discovered at the site. The terrace is lined with beautiful statues and carvings.
View of the terrace of the Leper King
High Relef Carvings and statues along the Terrace of the Leper King
I met my driver in the parking lot next to the Terrace of the Leper King and then he drove me about a half hour north to the next site on our visit: Banteay Srei.
Banteay Srei was built in the 10th century and is about 30 km north of Angkor, and though it is a small temple, the carved surfaces of the buildings are remarkable.
View of Banteay Srei
Carved lintel at Banteay Srei
Carvings, Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei
After Banteay Srei we came back toward the main park and stopped at a site called Banteay Samre, built during the 12th century. Located a few kilometers east of East Mebon, which I visited yesterday, Banteay Samre doesn’t receive that many tourists, which made it quite a pleasant place to visit.
Banteay Samre
Banteay Samre
This temple appears to be quite well restored considering how isolated it is.
At this point it was well past noon, so Mr Lai took me to a little lunch spot in Angkor park so I could eat quickly before our next stop. After lunch, we went to Ta Phrom, the real Tomb Raider temple (part of the first Lara Croft movie was filmed here). Built in the late 12th to early 13th centuries, Ta Phrom was one of the major temples and monasteries during the reign of Jayavarman VII. From what I’ve read, it appears that the decision to leave this site in its current state, with trees and vegetation growing amid the ruins, was intentional. It’s no wonder this site has such a romantic and fantastical feel to it. Though many visitors do go to this site, it still feels very remote. It’s difficult to capture the beauty of the strangler figs and other trees growing around the ruins.
Ta Phrom
Ta Phrom ruins
Ta Phrom ruins
View of Ta Phrom West Entrance
I was back at the hotel before 3pm. Even though it was only mid-afternoon, it felt like a long day. Tomorrow is another one. I start at 5am, with sunrise over Angkor Wat. Off to bed!
Jules Traveler 